I live in Minnesota and the frost depth last year was 7', way deeper than I could ever dig my trench. The deeper the trench you can dig, the better. My goal was to not be able to see where I had trenched when I was done. Re-sodding is crucial if you want the finished product to look natural. I tried to save the grass into big clumps so that I could more easily re-sod at the end of the project. I ended up digging about 120' long in 4 hours. My solution to this problem was to ignore them as much as possible and just keep digging. This will really get the neighbors asking questions, as it will look like your goal is to destroy your yard. Next, whip out the shovel and dig a trench. I didn't have to do that, but I did have a gentle curve in the course to the alley. Plus, since the Corex is flexible, unlike PVC, there is the option to steer around any obstacles. I went with non-perforated because I don't want any tree roots clogging it up and I'm not worried about picking up any groundwater. Is cheaper than PVC, and easier to transport, I transitioned to that shortly after the arms of my Y met up. I settled on this design because I wanted as few angles as possible, so that any speed the flowing water picked up would not be slowed down by making a 90 degree corner. My plan was to use 4" PVC pipe, with fittings, to make a Y-shape away from the house. Water flows downhill so you have to have some amount of slope so the water will run somewhere. While the house sits on flat ground, there is enough slope in the back yard for this project to work. I wanted a good way to get rainwater from the roof as far away from the house as possible.
Before installing gutters, rainwater from the roof fell to the ground and didn't flow anywhere before soaking in to the soil - hence, large spring rains lead to water in the basement. The house sits in the front half of the property, which is flat.
The rainwater from the back half of the property slopes down to the alley, which has a storm sewer.
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